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Thursday, November 20, 2008

Restaurants

The sweet taste of gelato at Bottega Italiana

September 26, 2008

I fell in love with gelato during a trip to Italy.

Gelato, or Italian ice cream, is usually made with less butterfat and air than American ice cream. The result: clearer, more intense flavor than one typically gets with ice cream.

Thankfully, back in Seattle, I was able to satisfy cravings at Bottega Italiana, which opened a gelateria near Pike Place Market five years ago.

Last year, Bottega Italiana added a Green Lake location — a perfect excuse for a post-workout treat.

The menu: Gelato, of course — made daily, with about 20 flavors to choose from. Some are changed seasonally; others are year-round staples. The store's Web site notes that its gelato is gluten-free, and some flavors are dairy-free. Gelato in a cup ranges from $3.20 (for two flavors) to $5.20 (for four flavors). There are also slightly more elaborate desserts such as a gelato-filled croissant, and some panini options.

What to write home about: My lunch companion and I tried eight gelato flavors. Two truly amazed: The orange-with-chocolate was a perfect blend of fresh-squeezed citrus flavor and luscious dark-chocolate pieces; the pistachio was bold and nutty. The pear was excellent, tasting like a concentrated version of the fruit. The melon and plum were milder and subtler. The chocolate and tiramisu were solid renditions. Only one flavor disappointed: the hazelnut, which was too sweet and bland with not enough robust nuttiness.

The Parma panini — with mozzarella, Parma ham and arugula on grilled focaccia ($8.49) — had just the right amounts of each ingredient so that the flavors and textures complemented each other.

The setting: The décor is casual and minimalist: warm gold walls, dark wood tables and white cloth-covered block stools. Speed of service depends on the number of people in line. The day we were there, service was prompt.

Summing up: Two large gelato cups and a Parma panini came to $20.57 including tax. Not the most nutritionally balanced meal, but my taste buds were singing on the way out.

Janet I. Tu: 206-464-2272 or jtu@seattletimes.com

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