Wedgwood Broiler does basic burgers beautifully

The entree arrives without pretense.

Burger, bun, jus.

No chipotle mayonnaise, flash-fried potatoes or anything that could be construed as culinary flair. In fact, there's nothing novel at all here at the Wedgwood Broiler, a quintessential neighborhood diner that dates back to the 1960s, and where Dereck Cockbain has been the owner since 1996. Wedgwood offers just this: a burger cooked as it ought to be, crisp on the outside, maybe even singed in a spot or two, pink and juicy in the middle.

The menu: Meat. Lots of it. The Hamburger Dip ($8.25) is delicious, with no need for vegetables or condiments and served on a soft, plain white roll that is the perfect vehicle for this Cadillac of a burger.

Broiler meats are all expertly grilled or lovingly braised or fried — if we're talking about the chicken that showed up as a special last week. The two-page entree menu is not expansive, but it doesn't need to be. Wine doesn't go north of $31 a bottle; pints of beer always stay south of $4. Make sure to check the special board on the way in. That's where you'll find pot roast, a London Broil or perhaps another down-home classic.

What to write home about: That Hamburger Dip. It's house-ground and so good it doesn't need cheese to be a real treat. You can get it with cheese or bacon, but the real gem is the dip.

What to skip: The salad that consists of iceberg lettuce, bacon bits and cheese crackers. I liked it, but I also know that not everyone will.

The setting: The restaurant is well-lit, and the smoking ban has axed the thick haze that used to billow out of the lounge. Still, there's enough brick and deeply stained wood here that all you'd need are a leisure suit and feathered bangs to flash back two or three decades.

Summing up: Quality burgers can be found in all corners of Seattle, from Blue Moon to Red Mill to Palace Kitchen, where burgers come accompanied by a multitiered carriage carrying the condiments and vegetables. But give me the Wedgwood Broiler's burger any time.

My solo dinner came to $17.

Danny O'Neil: 206-464-2364 or doneil@seattletimes.com

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