Scenic rambles demand a slower pace

Islands are like small countries, each one a distinct personality with its natural history, demographics, language, ambience, geography, cultural values and environmental niche. Some feel open and friendly, others more introspective, but one characteristic that all seem to share is a slowdown in time. Those who live on islands seem to live at a more relaxed pace and are protective of their privacy.

Vashon Island is no exception.

It is not a place to hurry through, nor is it a place for hikers seeking rugged trails. Vashon Island is better suited for walking, rambling, exploring, bicycling and old-fashioned Sunday drives. Though hiking trails are tame compared with mountainous routes, you will need a good pair of boots because paths are muddy and carpeted with soggy autumn leaves.

Instead of a pack, bring binoculars, a camera and field guides. Birding opportunities abound and when the weather is foul, there are inviting places to duck into for coffee or a prowl through books or antiques. Bring a map of the island -- you will need it to find your way around.

Though the island is small, we ran out of time before we ran out of island. We didn't get to all the destinations on our wish list but discovered unexpected treasures to compensate. You'll be making a mistake thinking you can visit the parks, nature preserves and hike the trails in a day -- select a few places and come back when you are in island-mode again.

Our first stop was Harold E. Agren Memorial Park, which offers hikers 30 acres of forested trails with several loops.

Originally, Vashon was covered with old-growth forests with snags, nurse logs, multilayered canopies and diverse plant communities. In the early 1900s, the forests were logged and anything that was left was burned. The clearcutting resulted in the loss of habitat for wildlife and the diversity for which old-growth forest is revered.

KAREN SYKES

Fisher Pond, on a 90-acre nature preserve, is a good spot for birders.

After that, two species dominated the forest: uniform stands of Douglas fir and red alder, which created conditions for invasive plants to take root and overrun the forest.

A recent thinning operation took place to help restore the forest to its former grandeur. Vashon Parks District planted cedar trees, bigleaf maples, grand fir and other native shrubs while removing invasive plants. Today, Agren Park serves as a fine example of good forestry practices and stewardship.

Nearby is Fisher Pond, a 90-acre wildlife preserve and the largest pond on Vashon. Fisher Pond is the centerpiece of the upper Shinglemill Creek Salmon Preserve, a labor of love by the late Bill Fisher, an island resident who purchased and pieced together the property over the years. In 1999, Fisher donated the property to preserve its natural state.

The property forms the headwaters of Shinglemill Creek, one of the largest drainages on Vashon Island, and provides habitat for many species of wildlife. Shinglemill Creek is joined by other tributaries and eventually drops into Fern Cove on Vashon's west side.

Fisher Pond is a good spot for birders and a trail follows the north side of the pond to the Bill Fisher memorial stone. The best views of the pond are from there -- you'll also find a covered picnic table next to the memorial. Per Fisher's wishes, no wheeled vehicles are allowed in the preserve, collecting of flora or fauna is prohibited, and no dogs are allowed.

Our next stop was Burton Acres and Jensen Point. Here you will find 68 acres of walking and horse trails, a boat launch, picnic area and a small beach with views of Puget Sound. One solitary snag stands out against the sky, adding a touch of drama to the otherwise peaceful view. The trails are across the highway from Jensen Point and marked with small signs.

We spent about an hour hiking this pleasant maze through evergreens, deciduous trees, salal, licorice ferns, shelf fungus and mushrooms as small, hidden birds twittered at our passage. Junctions are not signed, but you'd have to work very hard to get lost.

The next stop was Maury Island, Point Robinson Lighthouse and adjoining Point Robinson Park. The Robinson Point Lighthouse is on the eastern tip of Vashon-Maury Island. Here, the small beach invites you to set a spell and enjoy the view. If you're lucky, you may spot whales. We didn't, but did find a variety of jellyfish washed up on the beach. When the tide is low, walking farther along the beach is possible.

Point Robinson Lighthouse was established in 1885 as a fog signal station with a whistle -- a light was added in 1887 to aid mariners. One keeper tended the light and fog signal from 1885 until 1903. As the area often was shrouded in fog, sailors referred to the point as the "Fog Net."

The present lighthouse and a new foghorn were in place by the early 1900s. The current light was installed in 1915 and manually attended until 1978. Before it was automated, the light was turned off during the day and curtains drawn around the lantern room to protect the glass from the sun. The U.S. Coast Guard leases Point Robinson Light Station to the Vashon Parks District, and the lighthouse is listed on the National Historic Register.

Point Robinson Park is forested, with picnic facilities on the bluff above the lighthouse. The 12-acre park also provides restrooms, trails, artwork and beach access. The grounds at sea level are sandy and marshlike and create a nature preserve for wildlife and birds. A small memorial garden and a bench can be found at the foot of the bluff where it meets the marsh.

The south Keepers Quarters is operated as a guesthouse that can be rented. It is available weekly, year-round.

If you go

Getting there:

• Fisher Pond/Harold E. Agren Memorial Park -- Take the Vashon ferry from West Seattle. On the island, follow the main road, Vashon Highway Southwest, toward Vashon. Just before Vashon, turn right on Southwest Banks Road at the stop sign. At a dip in the road, you'll find limited roadside parking with a view of Fisher Pond and trail access just past a nature preserve sign. There is also a small sign for the preserve at the intersection of 115th and Southwest Banks Road. For Harold E. Agren Park, continue on Southwest Banks and shortly you'll come to a parking area near the ball field, picnic shelter and an information kiosk.
• Jensen Point/Burton Acres Park -- Return to Vashon Highway and continue to Burton. Turn left onto Southwest Burton Drive and continue about a half-mile. Where the road comes to a T, turn left at 97th Avenue Southwest and continue a mile to Jensen Point (left) and Burton Acres Boat House, with parking and restrooms.
• Robinson Point Lighthouse/Robinson Point Park -- From Vashon Highway, turn left on Quartermaster Drive and go 1.4 miles to a fork in the road. Take the right fork (Dockton Road), go .4 mile, then turn left onto Point Robinson Road and continue about 1.7 miles, where it will connect with 240th Street. After these roads meet, continue to the lighthouse. You also can get to Robinson Point by turning left onto Luana Beach Road (off Point Robinson Road). Luana Beach Road leads directly to the park. There are other roads you can take to the park; allow a little extra time as it's not quite how it appears on the map.

Trail data: Harold Agren Memorial Park and Burton Acres Park add up to about four miles of walking, 200 feet of elevation gain.

Information:

For more on Fisher Pond, Shinglemill Creek and other nature preserves, visit the Vashon Maury Island Land Trust Web site at www.vashonlandtrust.org.

For more on Point Robinson Park, Point Robinson Lighthouse, renting the south Keepers Quarters or other parks on the island, call the Vashon Park District at 206-463-9602 or visit www.vashonparkdistrict.org/ You can download a map of the island from this site.

For more birding spots on Vashon, refer to "Nature in the city Seattle" by Maria Dolan and Kathryn True (Mountaineers, 285 pages, $15.95).

For ferry information, call 206-464-6400 or visit www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/ Pick up a free copy of "Destination Vashon" on the ferry; we found it very helpful in finding our way around.

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